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I think I have this EXACT same problem in my car right now..My car is basically DEAD right now....I don't even ahve the JR Map sensor...just a GSR w/ jrsc and Hondata.
The original map sensor was relocated to the JR intake manifold (simply plug the original hole and put the vaccum hose attaching it to the JR intake). Wire wasn't even disconnected in the process. Car was fine for like a month now until yesterday...
Three *very* quick blink followed by a brief pause....Code 3 = map sensor problem... I'm trying to figure out what the heck is the problem is right now http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/frown.gif
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It's powered by GASOLINE damnit!!!
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Oh Noooo! I am really hoping that it is a faulty JR map unit. Just seems strange that after a short cool down the car behaves normally. I'm gonna disconnect the map unit tonite and hope for the best.
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Hey if you look back a week or so I started a thread talking about a CEL 03 problem that I had.. It's pretty similar to what you're talking about.. I got a CEL 03 and the car just started idling and running like shit.
Anyway I discovered that my problem was the ground connection for the JR MAP Mod.. Where (exactly) did you connect the ring connector for the ground wire?
Richard
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98 GSR driven everywhere.
Akimoto intake, MSD 6a, Magnecor 8.5mm, Autometer A/F,Boost,F/P, B&M F/P, NGK BKR7E, JRSC, JR MAP Mod, Walbro GSS-342.
Ex-Squeezer.
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The voltage clamp in the MAP controller is not clamping. This means that one of the connections is intermittent or has come undone from the time that you originally did the install or the ground is not good enough. It is that simple. To date we have not had a bad electronics of any kind. We have had bad connectors put on by customers and in 3 cases by our manufacturer. One just Friday on a Prelude box. So check all 4 connections. Both of the MAP wire connections, the power connection and the ground connection for a good connector and for a good ground. One has come loose. Any one of these being loose and as soon as you see boost the CEL for MAP will come on.
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Not sure where the ground was wired. Had it done by a shop about 3 months ago with absolutely no problems. Then, one trip into the mountains and whammo, it started up. I'll check the ground and all connections tonite, before I disconnect it completely. That would be great if it were a simple ground wire. Still seems fishy that a cool off period resets the problem.
Just realized that most of my trips are without a passenger around. Perhaps she loosened a wire. The map unit is at the very front of the passenger floor.
[This message has been edited by satitus (edited October 01, 2001).]
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So I _think_ that my problem has been solved. I?m going to post what I did/found out for future searches, etc.
Basically, I removed map converter completely. Initially forgot to re-install the JR relay+pressure switch and the car ran very lean going into boost but didn?t throw a CEL. DUH, remembered the relay/switches and once installed the car ran almost like before (I?ve gotten used to the smooth boost transition with the MAP converter). No CELs thrown after lots of driving, so I'm thinking I may have eliminated a bad MAP converter. I then completely replaced the connections for the MAP+ECU using wiring clips (so that I could easily add/remove these connections in the future). After a 30 mile drive in today with some serious boosting, I experienced no CEL! I?m really hoping that there was simply a poor connection that I was able to fix. If I throw another CEL, I?m willing to bet it is something internal in the MAP converter. We?ll see. Also, here is some info from Oscar for one to try if they suspect a bad converter:
?What you might have him do is connect the MAP controller ground wire to the actual MAP sensor ground wire instead of a chassis ground. That way you know you are working just with the MAP system. But, basically you should be seeing a voltage of around 1 volt at idle coming from the MAP sensor at idle and no more than 2.9 while in Boost. IF you are seeing more than 2.7-2.9 while in boost the MAP controller isn't working. Or, if you can get him hooked to a scan tool, 30kpa at idle, 90-100 kpa with key on/ engine off. 108 max kpa in boost.?
O
I?d like to thank everyone for responding particularly 2kbill for all the help with wiring and Jrcivic for the phone help. I hope this is the last time I post on this particular matter?..
